The Ultimate Virgoan Of Fashion

Elsa Schiaparelli was the Ultimate Virgoan Of Fashion.

Arch-Rival to the tres Leo Coco Chanel, she was a poet and a surrealist. Above is her Zodiac Jacket from 1938. She was Virgo – Sun-Vesta-Saturn with Moon-Chiron-Lilith in Leo.  She had the Neptune-Pluto conjunction in Gemini, characteristic of her (amazing) generation.

She had fellow pagan astrology freak genius artists like Dali & Leonor Fini design stuff for her – eg; these perfume bottles:

The bottle for the 1938 scent Shocking – above – was based on the body of ultra-Leo Mae West, one of Else Schiaparelli’s fave clients. Everyone copied Elsa and often still do. In a poignant little postscript, she had a daughter – Gogo Schiaparelli and her daughter, the beautiful Aries photographer, Berry Berenson, was in one of the planes used in the terrorist attack on September 11 2001.

How rad are these Elsa Schiaparelli gloves & belt?  I would LOVE to know what this lady had rising. Oh and she wrote these 12 Fashion Commandments For Women f.y.i.

1. Since most women do not know themselves, they should try to do so.

2. A woman who buys an expensive dress and changes it, often with disastrous result, is extravagant and foolish.

3. Most women (and men) are colour-blind. They should ask for suggestions.

4. Remember, 20 percent of women have inferiority complexes, 70 percent have illusions.

5. Ninety percent are afraid of being conspicuous, and of what people will say. So they buy a gray suit. They should dare to be different.

6. Women should listen and ask for competent criticism and advice.

7. They should choose their clothes alone or in the company of a man.

8. They should never shop with another woman, who sometimes consciously, and often unconsciously, is apt to be jealous.

9. She should buy little and only of the best or the cheapest.

10. Never fit a dress to the body, but train the body to fit the dress.

11. A woman should buy mostly in one place where she is known and respected, and not rush around trying every new fad.

12. And she should pay her bills.

Thoughts?

 

 

50 thoughts on “The Ultimate Virgoan Of Fashion

    • to the designer ;)

      in the old days, people used to rack up large bills at the houses like an account. Now credit card companies deal with this.

      • I was actually thinking of a prominent Perth designer who recently declared she had a couple of mill debt and only $200 to her name.
        A girl should always pay her bills. Pride and reputation.
        Though,as u point out, not what Schiaparelli meant.

  1. The Lobster dress is for a cancarian – without a doubt – Have you ever seen Kataka eat a lobster??? It’s like Daryl Hannah in the restaurant scene with Tom hanks in the movie Splash……..:) xx

  2. The torso of Mae West reminds me very muchly of one Jean Paul Gaultier’s perfume bottles…

  3. “Train the body to fit the dress” wtf? Yeah, I’ll train my body to be half a foot taller. Tailoring is for the weak! Pfft. Saturn in Virgo indeed.

    • i was thinking the same thing! Plus why not just break ribs and smash pelvis to make them fit too! Hello anorexia!

      yeah this is why my clothes have a touch of spandex.

      • I wonder if she was being bitchy about customers who purchased a dress from her and later came in for alterations? Either way – what an insane “law” to make. Fashion should make you feel extra good in your body or else what’s the value of it.

  4. I love her surrealist influences. I have a massive thing for surrealist accessories and have designed a few myself. Her laws of fashion are interesting. I love the one about not being paid lol.

  5. Although I’m not into bling perse or something that looks like it could feel like a corset when on but I have to say that jacket is kind of cool.

    I have tails circa that era and even though they’re for a male the inside of the jacket is all boned and satin and they’re heavy wool and a little like a straight jacket but you do keep your shoulders back (because you have to!) and you do get that nice curve at the back as a result.

  6. Shocking was gorgeous, a true classic, it is sadly missed I’m pleased to find she was a fellow virgo. That generation really was amazing, avant garde in a way that makes contemporary artists seem tame and conservative by comparison.

  7. bet she had Cancer rising, looking at the goo-goo eyes (thanks to Mystic’s edumacating me !)

    The tailoring on that jacket is superb – so there’s the Virgo for you.

    But cannot agree with her commandments, tailor the body to fit the dress indeed. PFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFt. It takes much more skill to work with real women’s bodies, why are so few able to take the challenge?

    • Ans: Because it requires discipline from the wearer to respect the construct of design. Clothes are poorly made nowadays, because they represent the lack of respect people have for their bodies. Most consumers ‘think’ they know their bodies, yet they rarely know how to be in their (own) body! Once you have true respect and discipline for your body, then you will want to clothe it in garments that have respect for design. Instead most people are worried about their hip-pockets, and will buy cheap and cheerful nasty pieces. This applies to both males and females.
      M.

      • Agreed Miu!

        My mother was a couture tailor for many years. The memories of those bossy frumps who expected her or their shapewear to hide every careless bulge and sloped shoulder with no inkling (or concern) on how their own muscles, bones, ignorance, misery and wastefulness contributed to the body’s appropriation of a garment, brings back wistful memories of my mother dumbing down her talents and zipping her lips to make a buck.

        “train the body to fit the dress” from what I’ve always understood was never a cynical call to anorexia, or even meant to apply to the hoards of indistinguishable, over-priced, cheaply blended fabric and designs sold at commercial, luxury and even ‘natural’ shops. It’s appreciation of the body’s organic interaction with its environment. It’s a dance, learning how one another moves. I do this dance to survive in this world.

        • Dear Astraea: You have continued this thought most beautifully, and it is appreciated that your point comes from having experienced someone involved in the design/garment couture industry. To be a refined human being, one needs to be in their body. The dance of awareness is subtle, beautiful and graceful. With the shift in consciousness, one is hopeful that people come back to their bodies. At the moment the design industry (fashion) is also in chaos. New appointments at the House of Dior, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, respectively at the end of this month, are significant of the changes that need to occur for beauty to continue. It should also be noted that the House of Schiaparelli is currently under discussion of being restored, with a head designer to be appointed. These shifts can only be appreciated if individuals once again respect their bodies, and understand that they are powerful vehicles designed for beauty and inspiration. M.

    • I agree aqua lion – goo goo eyes made me instantly think Kataka rising, or possibly Pisces – the full lips and wistful look.

  8. Love her designs! Especially the show hats and fingernail gloves!
    I love that she is a Virgo- not your typical Virgo either. lol!
    the love story/affair between Berry Berenson and Anthony Perkins is wonderful.

  9. I LOVE HER! She is very Scorpio rising in appearance to me (takes one to know one?), I mean who else but a Virgo Scorp Leo would love black arm length gloves with golden claws?

      • Me too! I am Virgo sun Scorpio moon Venus in Leo! She’s cool with an opinion that is not everyone’s cappuccino – got to respect that…. And the gloves, lobster dress, pagoda dress n all the surrealist prints..,,,

  10. I always that Marisa Berenson was so beautiful, my mother had Vogues with her on the cover, though I didn’t really know much about Berry til now…

    My mother revered couture, so I used to read about Schiaparelli, Balenciaga St Laurent and Dior when I was young. Found it very glamorous, and I worked for an iconic Australian fashion designer in my early twenties. It was mad, i remember Robert Hughes coming in to get clothes for his wife, and Christy Brinkley, and Australian social- types, very fun for a twenty- one year old. I still like the art side of clothes, the haute Neptunian fantasy of inspired fashion, but I dislike fashion as multi-national mega business, as it is these days.

    • Exactly my feeling Veronica, I think is Schiap’s day it was much more of an art form unsullied by the depressing influence of the ad industry which IMO is both anti-democratic at a societal level, conniving at the disinformation of the masses and also drearily same-ifying at an artistic level. Zap zone save us from fuqing marketing and PR.

      • “conniving at the disinformation of the masses and also drearily same-ifying at an artistic level.”

        Yep, totes agree, Anon, I remember when looking in fashion mags at styles was inspirational, not just looking at a catalogue

        • Yes! That’s exactly what so many fash mags are. And websites. The whole see-click-buy thing makes me nauseous. ‘Must-have’ consumer culture makes me want to overturn the money-changers’ tables in the yard, or whatever the non-biblical modern equivalent is. Aaaaaaa the mindlessness. In conclusion: lead us not into chain stores, and deliver us from mass marketing. For thine is the recycled, long-lasting, and ethically produced, now and forever, a-menswear.

  11. Love the 12 tips for women but why the use of question marks to punctuate the points ? Was it originally printed that way or did someone add question marks ?

    Mercury is retrograde and those question marks are inaccurate and undermine the message.

    Love the belt, though I’ll pass on the gloves with what looks like gold claws, saying no to the lobster dress.

  12. I would totally wear those gold claw gloves! Merow! (Mars & Merc in Leo)

    Love the perfume bottles, if you look closely the “face” on the sun is also birds in flight, very pagan!

    Some very wise words there! Particularly the thing about fear of being conspicuous.

  13. Those 12 tips are so stupid and outdated!

    “They should choose their clothes alone or in the company of a man”

    WTF!

    … and the comment about jealousy just put me off her completely.

  14. Yay! Thank you Mystic :) this is someone whose idiosyncrasies I happily live with (in a manner of speaking?) because of her wonderful creatively lawless spirit, as far as I can gather from my reading about her. I would happily lead a Schiaparelli cult!

    And how sad about her granddaughter..did not know that..

    Xx

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